“On June third [1863] occurred an event of great importance in the history of the regiment,” one writer exclaimed from the camp of the 146th New York at Falmouth, Va. The new uniforms the regiment had been promised three-months earlier had finally arrived. The men eagerly divested themselves of the regulation fatigue blouses and New York state-issued jackets they had grown accustomed to for much more attractive dress: exotic uniforms of French “Turco”-inspired design.¹

Maj. Gen. George B. McClellan and Col. Gouverneur Warren had envisioned an entire “Zouave Brigade” a year prior. “These regiments are to be organized, armed, equipped, and uniformed in the same manner as the 5th Regiment of New York Volunteers,” instructed McClellan, following the battle of Antietam. Unfortunately, a few units were assigned elsewhere and the ability to issue Zouave-type uniforms wasn’t feasible at the time. But according to Lt. Henry Curran of the 146th, the regiment was still being assured the Zouave dress at the end of 1862.²

Serendipitously, a major event transpired that permitted the creation of the “Garrard’s Tigers” uniform. For many Federal units, two-year enlistment terms were expiring. Among them were members of the notorious “Duryee’s Zouaves” (or 5th New York Volunteers), however some 325 members who had joined after its formation were still required to finish-out their service. It was determined that 234 veterans of the 5th were to be transferred into the ranks of the 146th regiment. Thus, because of the influx of their veteran members, the men were re-issued similar Zouave dress to appear a cohesive regiment.

Specific details about the ensemble are mentioned in the unit’s history, Campaigns of the 146th Regiment, New York State Volunteers:

The zouave uniform consisted of large baggy trousers, blue in color, which were fastened at the knees; a fez cap, bright red in color, with red tassel; a long white turban which was wound around the hat, but worn only for dress parade; a red sash about ten feet long which was wound about the body and afforded a great comfort and warmth; and white cloth leggins (sic.) extending almost to the knees.³

While the beauty of its appearance had been long-desired, dressing oneself proved to be a humorous affair. “It required laborious work and considerable time to adjust them properly,” a member recalled. “The turbans, especially,” he added, “caused us no end of trouble, until we found that the best way to wind them about our heads was to have a comrade circle round and round with the sash in his hands until it was properly draped about the fez cap.” But after “much perspiring” and “considerable profanity,” dressings would become routine and simply habit, like much of army life. In one instance, Sergeant D. Marshall Porter of the 155th Pennsylvania Infantry (a sister Zouave unit) struggled to find a new uniform to fit his six-foot nine-inch build. His colonel resolved the problem by ordering the Regimental Quartermaster to issue Porter two uniforms that were made long enough into one, which thereafter presented “a most singular and grotesque appearance”.⁴ But for most, “the new uniform greatly pleased us all,” continued the writer. “Not only because of its advantages in comfort and utility over the regulation infantry uniform.” Their first dress parade held at Falmouth, Va. in June 1863 was evidently a grand display to recall. “With our Turkish trousers and our turbans, we looked not unlike the soldiers of Mahomet.”⁵

As elaborate as the initial uniforms were, the quality began to deteriorate after much field-wear. “I have not seen a change of clothing since we left Maryland,” wrote Lt. Col. David T. Jenkins, following the Gettysburg Campaign. “But I have the satisfaction of being just as healthy as I am dirty.”⁶ During this time, many men wrote home asking for simple undergarments. “I would like a good red on blue flannel shirt,” Charles Brandegee asked his father. “Let it be double-breasted like a fire[man’s] shirt. I want it for an over shirt.”⁷ It was reported, however, that while in winter camp at Beverly Ford (two miles above Brandy Station, Va.) the regiment was once able to convalesce and regularly drill “with our new zouave uniforms” and presented “a splendid appearance”.⁸ A new regimental flag was also acquired to replace the former “unserviceable” one, originally presented to the unit by the citizens of Oneida County. Most importantly, the promotion and transfer of the original commander, Gen. Garrard, also brought a second-issue of new uniforms in January 1864.⁹ That clothing seemed to have endured into the month, as cited in a brigade review held on February 9th. “It was a very brilliant affair,” wrote Maj. Curran, “And the new uniforms of the brigade presented a very gay spectacle indeed.”¹⁰ Based on these accounts, it can be determined that the regiment was fairly-well attired before the Overland Campaign commenced a few months later.

Further evidence is provided in the highly-descriptive memoir of Cpl. Norton Shepard as the regiment entered the battle of the Wilderness. According to Out of the Wilderness, Shepard writes that the army halted just before the night of May 4th to prepare rations “consisting of hardtack and coffee” and slept the warm night with “no tent or covering except our blankets”.¹¹ Wounded three times and captured after the battle, Shepard goes on to say that he ridded himself of, “cartridge box, knapsack and other things that would hinder my traveling”.¹² This seems to refute the regimental history, which stated the men had “unslung our knapsacks and threw ourselves down among the bushes and trees to avoid unnecessary danger” just moment before entering Saunders Field.¹³

Surrounded by enemy troops, Shepard later states that a Rebel “took from my breast a silver corps badge and then asked me to trade hats with him”.¹⁴ Interestingly, he recalled, “I was not surprised that he wanted to trade, as I had good black felt hat that had been sent me from the North only a few weeks before.” Shepard was perhaps not the only person eager to dismiss the traditional zouave fez. Private Charles Brandegee of Co. A had also written his father three months earlier asking for “a good Black Felt Hat, 7 1/2 size” because he needed it “very bad”.¹⁵ This suggests that while the unit was expected to seem consistent, some individuals chose to supply themselves with more convenient items. For Norton Shepard, his belongings and person were subject to capture nonetheless. “Another [Rebel] came up and wanted to trade the contents of my haversack with me,” he continued. “I told him to help himself, so he took my [hardtack] crackers, coffee, sugar and pork, which composed my stock of eatables.” This apparently amounted to six days’ worth of prepared army rations, which his captors were very eager to receive. Shepard’s precise recollections of what he carried into the Wilderness remains a rare and unique opportunity to understand the regiment’s appearance overall.

There are no known surviving examples of the turban, other than what is stated in the regimental history. Under the Maltese Cross, mentions the turban was a ten-foot long sash of white flannel and about foot wide.¹⁷ It was worn for dress parade only and appear in several portrait images.